Showing posts with label Sao Paulo. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sao Paulo. Show all posts
Thursday, June 12, 2014
Wednesday, June 11, 2014
Out and About in Sao Paulo
Since the last blog post entry we have been spending our
time acclimatising to Brazil, its weather and its culture, and checking out the
sights and sounds of Sao Paulo. On Sunday we made our first foray in to the Avenue
Paulista district with a visit to Sao Paulo’s Museum of Art, (MASP). Not only
does MASP have a great collection of Brazilian art, it also has a world class
collection of art from around the world, including a really comprehensive
selection of French Impressionist painters, from Cezanne to Pissarro, and Monet
to Manet. I was in my element swanning around the art gallery and spotting some
of my favourite pictures from history, it looks like
that time at art school
was noit completely wasted. Suitably
cultured-up, we wandered across the road to a park called “Parque Tenente
Siqueira Campos”, which is a recreation of the Atlantic maritime rainforest
that existed here before Sao Paulo came into existence. It was a very
impressive collections of native trees that formed a natural canopy, serving as
a cool refuge from the Brazilian heat. We wandered through this park at our
leisure enjoying the unique ‘jungle’ experience in the middle of a busy city,
and as this was a Sunday, there were plenty of other locals doing the same.
Hunger was setting in so after a quick consultation with
‘Foursquare’ I found an Argentinean restaurant about a block away and off we
trotted. The restaurant was a pretty swanky affair but we soon lowered the tone
and set about ordering some beer and very large cuts of meat. When they arrived
they looked delicious and just as we were about to start the waiter came by
with a side serving of rice, yum, nice, I’ll have me some of that. Just as I
was contemplating a second attempt to get stuck in, another waiter came by,
this time with some bean side dish, okay, that looks good. This process
occurred another two times until our plates were over laden with not only some
great meat but a heap of additional sides. Boy, am I enjoying eating out in Sao
Paulo.
Monday was ticket collection day so we jumped on the subway
and after a swift interchange, we were at the FIFA ticket collection centre, in
the Sao Paulo Cultural Centre. At past World Cups we have had to queue for up
to 2 hours to collect our tickets, even in South Africa, which was a pretty
sweet collection process, we still had to queue for a short while. When we
rocked up to the collection centre this time, it was empty, as Yates and I were
only people in the place, I swear there were more security people on hand that
people collecting tickets. Nice, we were in and out in about 10 minutes, and
what was even better is that we each had a fist full of tickets... We still had
no luck getting tickets for the opening game of the competition, and are no
resigned to having to watch the game in a bar somewhere... What a hardship....
As we now had a ton of time on our hands we decided to head
into the centre of the city and go to the Banespa Tower, to take trip to their
observation desk and check out the size of this place. After some fannying
around to actually find the place, it shouldn’t have been so hard it is the
tallest building around, we finally joined the queue to check-in and ride the 2
elevators and climb 2 flights of stairs to get to the 33rd floor...!
It was a bit arduous with all the queuing and waiting around, but when we made
it to the top the view was staggering. I had read that Sao Paulo was the 3rd
largest city in the world, and that it is rightly called a ‘Megalopolis’, but
the 360 degree view of high-rise building & skyscrapers to the horizon really nailed it home. By the time we
got down from our precarious viewing platform it was time for lunch, which
today consisted of a huge buffet where they weight your meals before you ate
them. I won the heaviest combination of main & dessert, go figure. After
lunch we walked down past where the FIFA Fan Fest was being set up and then to
the main Cathedral for a short look around, and then caught the subway home.
We have been hearing TV news articles about trouble on the
Sao Paulo metro with strikes and protests, even the use of riot police &
tear gas..... We have been travelling around Sao Paulo completely unaffected by
these demonstrations, and in fact I was beginning to wonder if there was
another Sao Paulo somewhere that they were referring too. Having seen the
vastness of this city from the skyscraper, I can now easily imagine that there could
be something happening in another part of town that could go unnoticed where we
are.... It’s really that big.
On Tuesday, Fiona led us on an expedition across town to
check out the recently renovated and re-opened Museum of Immigration, which
told of the various phases of immigration to Brazil over the past 3 centuries. This
was a bit of local history that none of us had any real understanding or knowledge
of before, and the interactive museum housed in Brazils’ version of ‘Ellis
Island’ was very interesting and informative. The renovation work had been carried
out very sensitively, and the building and its grounds were now very attractive,
plus part of the complex was also now being used to help feed local people who
were down on their luck. Our luck was just fine so we went back towards Avenue
Paulista and found a restaurant specialising in Chicken, and once again stuffed
ourselves with some sumptuous food....

Today’s adventure was to the Sao Paulo Museum of Football,
which was only a 15-20 minute walk away from our apartment. Thus was the first
museum that was truly busy and I guess it’s no real surprise given that the
World Cup kicks off right here in this city tomorrow evening. As you can
imagine there were fans from all over the world shuffling through the various
exhibits, but the Croatians, whose team would be playing Brazil in the opening game
tomorrow, stuck out in their bold red and white checked colours, but it was all
very friendly and fun. The museum itself is located inside the Pacaembu Stadium,
and is spread over 3 floors, and whilst it is a little biased towards Brazil,
their world cup history & tradition, it was probably one of the best laid
out & interesting museums of its type I have seen anywhere. There was
plenty to see, and if we could have read Portuguese we would probably have
gotten even more out of it than the 2 hours we did. I would recommend this museum
even to those that don’t have a passion for football.
So that just about wraps up what we have been doing out and
about in Sao Paulo these past few days. In between the adventures above we have
been lazing around our apartments, taking mid afternoon siesta’s, and wandering
the local area to find a bar and meal most evenings. We have mostly overcome
our lack of being able to speak Portuguese with the use of ‘Google Translate,’ and
navigating our way through the labyrinthine city using ‘Google Maps’, and also
using technology to get cabs using ‘99Taxis’ and finding restaurants using the ‘Foursquare’
applications on our iPhones. Things have changed beyond belief since Yates &
I started coming to the World Cup in 1994.
Tomorrow is the Opening Ceremony & match of the 2014
World Cup, and we have managed to reserve a table at the bar just round the
corner, thanks to Google Translate & our new best friend ‘Celberson’ the
waiter. Then it’s on to the city of Fortaleza
on the Northern coastline of Brazil, where we see our first game, Uruguay v
Costa Rica.
Sunday, June 8, 2014
Fun facts and Figures – Part 2
Here is another round up of some of the fun facts and
figures about our trip so far:
- Current Distance Travelled: 15,414 kms
- Distance walked so far: 144.8 kms (almost unbelievable..!!)
- Words Written in Blog: 9,327 words
- Football Games Watched: 0 Live / 2 on TV
- Photos Taken so far: 1,090
- Strongest Beer Drunk: 18.2% - Brew Dog Tokyo
- Most Expensive Bar Bill: R$351 (NZ $183)
- Planes Taken: 5
- Public Buses Taken: 7
- Trains Taken: 1
- Games of Wizard Won: 2 (Steve) / 3 (Fiona)
- Highest Temperature: +30 Degrees C (Sao Paulo, Brazil)
- Lowest Temperature: -13 Degrees C (El Tatio Guysers, Chile)
Welcome to Brazil, anyone fancy a drink...?
We said our goodbyes to Christine & Andres at the ludicrously
early time of 4:00am and headed to Santiago’s international airport to continue
on the next leg of our journey. Uneventful flights are what I enjoy and this
was exactly what we had, apart from somehow our seat bookings got changed and
Fiona & I ended up sitting in different rows. In the scheme of things, this
was a minor inconvenience.
We were greeted upon our arrival in Sao Paulo but a light
rain, but this was mitigated by the fact that it was 19 degrees C and very
slightly humid. We got through customs & immigrations and collected our
bags from the carousel in what must have been a record time, but that was the
last thing we did quickly that day. The queue for the airport taxi was over 1
hour long, and then because the locals were having a protest somewhere in town,
the traffic was snarled up, and it took nearly an hour and a half to get from
the airport to where we were staying. And then our complete lack of being able
to speak Portuguese made checking-in a more difficult process that it should
have been, thank goodness that Yates suddenly showed up and talked loudly and
it soon everything was resolved.
It’s always great to see my old friend Yates, as I know that
a good time will ensue, but it is definitely more exciting to see him when I
know we have another six weeks of football, beer and sunshine to enjoy. This is
our 6th World Cup trip together, and Yates was as excited as ever
about the upcoming festivities. He had arrived in Sao Paulo the day before us
and he was in good spirits, having already spent some time in the gym, meet a
few people and found a bar right around the corner, where he had become
friendly with the owner. How he does these things is mind-blowing to me, his amiable
persona and open personality seems to be able to overcome any practical
impediment, especially where making friends and finding bars is concerned.
Fiona & I were pretty tired after out 10 hour journey,
so we retired to our apartment to chill out for a while and freshen up, but
then our hunger got the better of us so Yates led us to the bar he had found.
It literally was just round the corner, and the owner ‘Roberto’ acknowledged
Yates as we entered and we took a table out the back. This is where the fun
begins....! Our complete lack of Portuguese was not too much of a problem when
ordering food, but once we started on the drinks, thing soon got out of hand. The
first round of beers went well, even if I had asked for a Strong Ale and received
a large 14% beer, and even the next couple of rounds seemed straightforward. I
guess it was when we started trying to talk with our waiter, ‘Cleberson’, and
suggest that he recommend drinks for us that the wheels started to come off. We
then started on the Caipirinha’s, which are Brazil's national cocktail, made
with cachaça (a sugar cane hard liquor), sugar and lime. These things are
dangerous because the sugar & the lime disguise the
strength of the alcohol
content, and whilst I wouldn’t say they were being served in tall glasses, they
were bloody great big tumblers. After a further
two rounds of those, he brought us a shot of something that was absolutely foul
that almost brought tears to my eyes. This was fortunate as the pain of that
shot cut through my inebriation gifting me a brief moment of sobriety, in which
I decided that that was enough.... In the time we had been in there we had
racked up an enormous bill, which we duly paid, and we got out of there just in
time, as I suspect it could have got very messy if we had stayed any
longer. We stopped at the supermarket
for supplies and headed back to our apartments, and it was not long before we
crashed out.
Yates was up bright and early the next morning, but Fiona
& I were still catching up on our sleep when he came by at around 9:30am.
We agreed to meet up later in the morning to decide what we would do with the
rest of the day. Fiona & I did finally get our arses in gear, and by about
midday we were walking down the street towards a stylish part of town, with the
complicated mission of having a look around and maybe grabbing some lunch. We are staying at the top of a street called “Rua
Oscar Freire”, which further down turns into the ‘Rodeo Drive’ of Sao Paulo,
with its fancy designer stores and up market eateries. I figured if we were
going to wander aimlessly around Sao Paulo, a megalopolis somewhat famed for its
street crime and muggings, then we should be safer in an area where even the
muggers would be better off than we are..! I need not have worried about it as
it felt amazingly safe, and the only crimes being committed were of the fashion
variety, by us..!!
We found a lovely Italian restaurant for lunch and had a
great meal, and then walked slowly back towards our lodgings. It was hot, 30
degrees C hot, and with the humidity was rising, it was a long & sweaty walk
back up the hill. Halfway back we thought we should find an ATM to get some
more cash out to the evening, but each bank we tried, our cards did not work.
Bummer. Whist credit cards are good for most things, cash is king when it comes
to taxis, buses, and tipping round here and we were therefore concerned about
our liquidity. After arriving back at the apartment, I did a bit of research and
located some possible ATM’s that may offer us a chance of liberating some cash,
so I rounded up Yates and we trudged off down the hill again in search of some
dosh. I swear it was even hotter now, and even though we could not locate the
first bank I was looking for, we walked past another which we decided to try,
and BINGO, both of our cards worked and we were in the money again. The walk
back up the hill was hot, tedious, and very sweaty, but was made bearable with
a pit stop halfway up for a beer re-hydration session.
Now we had the cash, our plan for the evening’s
entertainment could go ahead, with a trip to Scotland’s Brew Dog bar in South
America, which is only a short cab ride away. Brew Dog are part of the Craft
Beer Revolution that is sweeping the world these days, and with only rare
opportunities to sample their beer in New Zealand, it was going to a bit of a
treat for me to actually drink their beer on draught. The place was really busy
when we arrived around 5:00pm, but we managed to get some seats pretty quickly,
eventually scoring a table in the open air section where we could look up and
see the moon & stars. The bar itself was once a car mechanics garage, and
it had
been converted in to a pretty cool space, and even though it was busy it
wasn’t too crowded inside. I was like a ‘pig
in shit’, soaking in the ambience and sampling all sorts of beers, not sure
whether Yates or Fiona were enjoying it as much as I was, but they seemed happy
enough. Eventually, Fiona told me it was
time for my last beer, and I thought that was fair enough, I had had a great
time, so we called up a taxi and headed home....
I guess that the theme of our first couple of days in Brazil
has been ‘beer’.... I can’t wait for the football to start...!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)

























