Sunday, June 15, 2014

Say Hello to Uncle Sweaty....

We spent the morning of our last full day in Sao Paulo just chilling out and making the most of the sunshine in the upmarket shopping area at the end of our road. Fiona and I had late brunch at a side walk cafe, sitting back to enjoy the people watching as the city started to get excited about the upcoming opening game of the World Cup. Up until this point we had only seen a handful of Brazilians wearing their national colours, but on this morning, every third person was either wearing a Brazil team shirt or was dressed in the green & gold of the Brazilian flag. The World Cup was finally here and the locals were starting to get into it, and there was a distinct buzz & sense of anticipation on the streets.

We went to our bar round-the-corner, (called ‘The Rabbit Hole’), and got a prime table out the back with a great view of the various TV’s, and proceeded to start on the drinking. The place filled up slowly to begin with but by kick off it was almost full, mainly with locals, but there was a strange table of about 6 middle aged men next to us that we were convinced were not Brazilians. We were well into our 5th or 6th round of beers by that time and nothing was going to stop us enjoying ourselves, in fact I think we were doing most of the

whooping and hollering along to the TV. The Croatian goal did start to put a bit of a dent in proceedings, but even though it was a bit controversial, it was great when Brazil scored their equalising penalty which was going to go a long way to keep the locals happy. To say that Brazil had a bit of luck on their side with the Japanese referee is a bit of an understatement, but they scored 2 more goals and put the game to bed. I don’t think I saw any of the middle aged men on the next table even smile at any point during the game, let alone cheer, I think they must have been Uruguayan ‘sex-tourists’ that had been unable to find the local brothel and stumbled into this bar instead...!

I think that it was the right result in the end, but Croatia was justifiably upset, but anything that keeps the locals concentrated on the football and doesn’t give them a reason to protest about anything is fine by me. We lost count of the number of rounds of beer we had had after about 10, but even then the bill was a reasonable R$300, (US$150), and that included 2 massive plates of fried chicken pieces... Suffice to say we retired to our respective apartments satisfied, stuffed, and maybe even a little drunk. The World Cup was officially under way....

The next day was a travel day, and an easy one at that. Our flight out of Sao Paulo wasn't until 3:15pm, and with Sao Paulo’s famous traffic congestion in mind, we decided to go straight to the airport after our 11:00am check-out. We need not have worried, the taxi ride that had taken the best part of 2 hours when we arrived only took us 40 minutes on the return trip, so we were at the airport with a couple of hours to kill. We were hoping to catch up with Yates’s brother David who would be joining us for the Fortaleza leg of the trip, who was in the airport at the same time, but we were trapped in Terminal One, while David languished in Terminal Two waiting for his connecting flights to Fortaleza. The fight was another of those of the uneventful kind I have come to like so much, and after waiting for Fiona’s bag that seemed to come out last on the carousel, we were through the controls and out in the arrivals area.... Blimey, it was hot, and not just hot, but humid as well. I usually wear my heaviest, and generally warmest, clothes when I travel, and standing in the arrivals area, I was starting to sweat in places that the sun doesn't shine..! Yates was going to wait for his brother who was coming in on a flight an hour after us, so Fiona and I got in a taxi and went to our new home for the next 17 days. Bloody hell, did I say it was hot...??

We made to the Beach Class Fortaleza with no drama, and after a few communications issues with the front desk, we were soon standing in our 21st floor penthouse apartment, with a commanding view towards the beach and the site of the Fortaleza Fan Fest. The Chile v Australia game was well into the second half by then and it was going off in the Fan Fest, where the screen was so big I could have watched the game from the balcony if it wasn't for the 50”HD TV in the apartment. And did I mention how hot it was...?? I was sweating like a glass-blowers arse.... I could not get out of my completely
inappropriate clothes and into a pair of shorts and a t-shirt, and lay back on the couch, sucking on an ice-cold beer from the fridge... 

Yates & David arrived about an hour later, and it was great to catch up with David for the first time since we saw him in Germany during World Cup 2006. He hasn't changed a bit in the intervening 8 years.... We didn’t waste too much time on pleasantries as we were all staring and it was already 10:30pm, so I fired up Foursquare and found a restaurant about 2 blocks away. This was a Brazilian Churascaria, where for a fixed price we could help ourselves to the extensive buffet, while white-shirted waiting move around the tables offering cuts from various barbecued meats, all of which were delicious. They gave us each a little token with a red side and a green side, and if we wanted more meat, we flipped it to the green side, and when we needed a break, flip it back to the red side, neat huh..?  We also rented about 4 litres of local beer which was a welcome accompaniment to the mountain of food we mowed through, I say rented, as I am sure that the beer was oozing out through my sweat glands as quick as I could drinking... Man, its hot here.... All I can say is I am glad that the bedrooms in the apartment have air-conditioning, we set ours at 16 degrees and left it running all night....

Woke up next morning, it was still hot...!

Today was going to be our first live game of the tournament, Uruguay vs Costa Rica at 4:00pm at the Estadio Castelao, Fortaleza. We made an early run to the supermarket for some breakfast supplies, found the details of how to make our way to the stadium, and made a plan to head at about 1:00pm, after Yates had finished exercising.  We hadn't walked more than 50 yards and I was already sweating through my shirt, and even though we seemed to buy beers from street vendors every 500 metres, I am sure I wasn’t replacing my fluids quick enough. This wasn't helped by a 50 minute ride to the stadium in a hot and sweaty
bus, which dropped us about 1km from the stadium, and after a pit stop for more beer we walked with the crowd in the early afternoon sun.  By this time I was sweating like a pig lord..... Queuing was minimal and we had no problems with the tickets, which was good as my ticket was in the name of “Susan Williams”, and we soon located our seats before searching out more beers and food. The stadium staff had not quite ironed out their operating processes, and queuing from beers was a bit of a free-for-all scrum, not helped by the Uruguayans employing some unique South American queuing techniques, but we all made it back to our seat in time for kick-off.



There were many more Uruguayans in the stadium than Costa Ricans and they made their presence felt with a rousing rendition of their National Anthem, which I swear has the longest introduction in World Football. I thought this should be an easy win for Uruguayan with their world class stars, including Forlan & Cavani, playing in the top leagues all around the world, against a Costa Rican side made up of unknowns and an Arsenal reject striker and a mediocre Fulham midfielder. The first half followed the script with Uruguay taking the lead with a nailed-on penalty, but Costa Rica were definitely not going to go out without a fight, but at half time I was still of the belief that it would go to form. The second half saw a turn-around as the ponderous
Uruguayan got caught out by quick pair of excellent goals by the Costa Ricans, and by the time they woke up it was too late, as Costa Rica slotted home a third goal to seal the game. Wow, what an upset... It was great to be in the Stadium at the end of the game with the Costa Rican chanting and the slow and dejected procession of Uruguayan fans leaving the stadium. Even after the sun had gone down, it just doesn't get any cooler, and we needed somewhere to get more beer to replenish our fluids.

We had decided before the match that we wouldn't have time to travel back into the city before the Italy v England game kicked off, and we had spotted a few bars on our walk towards the Stadium, so we found one with a free table in a prime position in front of the TV and settled in. One thing we didn't count on was the bar running out of beer before we got half way through the 1st half, but the game was so exciting, I hardly noticed. When Italy scored I was downhearted, but this was soon resolved with a beautifully worked goal for Sturridge and England. The second half had hardly started when the Italians scored again, but there was plenty of time and
England were taking the game to Italy. As time ticked by and chance after chance was squandered by England, that sense of impending doom started to creep over me, and when Rooney missed a sitter, I kinda knew it wasn't going to be our night. Plenty of positives from England, in all area’s but the result. Disappointing.... We got a taxi back into the city and wander around for a while, tried to get into a very happening bar on the waterfront, but it was so busy and that South American queuing system was in full effect, so we bailed and went to a local bar to the apartment to watch the end of the late game and grab a bite to eat. Whilst the England result had gone the wrong way, it had been one hell of a day....

I only stopped sweating when I fell asleep in our air-conditioned bedroom.....

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